The Culinary Delights Of Istanbul

Part of the joy of being in Istanbul apart from the beauty of its geography and its monuments is its food. And on our second trip – the first being an escorted tour that barely left us any time in the city – we were determined to explore its amazing culinary delights.

Our first few moments were spent in Sultanahmet, soaking in the sheer magic of the beautifully lit monuments and the mesmerizing rhythm of the call to prayer. Nowhere else on earth does the Muezzin’s call, sound quite like this! Ravenous after the sensory overload, we stopped at a little restaurant for fragrant lentil soup and Gozleme (stuffed pancakes) ending with sublimely refreshing Salep (orchid root) ice cream from Mado which was to become my daily sugar fix.

File:Mantar Gozleme.jpg
Lady making Gozleme. Image credit Wikipedia

Day one was allocated to the sights we had missed on our previous trip; the Topkapi Harem, the Archeological Museum and the exquisite Mosaic Museum. Disappointingly the ‘Ancient Near East’ section of the Archeological Museum was closed for renovations, so we missed seeing the ‘Treaty of Kadesh’ – a clay tablet – the only surviving copy of the oldest peace treaty in existence, between the Hittites and Rameses ll of Egypt.

Lahmacun – Image credit Wikipedia

A simple and delicious lunch of white bean salad and Koftes at Tarihi Sultanahmet Koftesi and we were all set to explore the Tahtakale area behind the Grand Bazaar ending at the beautiful Rustum Pasha Mosque. Next was the Spice Bazaar reminding us of the fun we had on our last visit, getting bespoke scents mixed at Orhans! After stocking up on Sumac and Sour Pomegranate sauce we cut across to the Galata bridge for a sunset view of the Golden Horn, and a good, cheap snack of balik-ekmek (fish sandwiches).

Tonight was a Kebab dinner at Hamdi’s. Istanbul is about kebabs, kebabs and more kebabs! From the thinly sliced Doner to the spicier Adana. We feasted on Fistikli (pistachio) kebabs, Lahmacun (lamb-coated flatbread), and Khadaifi (cheese filled pastry soaked in syrup). I first started eating red meat in Hamdi on our previous trip, when I sneaked a tender, heavenly morsel from R’s plate and became an instant convert! We messaged friends about our ‘divine’ meal and they responded with “We always knew you were a fake Ghaas Phoos (grass eater)!!”

Image credit – Ciya website

After a tour of the Dolmabahce Palace this morning we took the ferry to Kadikoy – on the Asian side – for lunch at Ciya, started by chef Musa Dagdeviren known as something of a “culinary anthropologist”. We had read rave reviews and were looking forward to a special lunch but were not as wowed as we expected to be. We really enjoyed walking around Kadikoy though, returning around sunset.

It was now time for mezze & Raki (potent anise flavoured liquor) at our favorite Meyhane, Bonchuk on Nevizade street. We couldn’t wait to taste their speciality, Topik (potato and bean casing filled with a paste of roasted onions, raisins and pine nuts) again.

We moved the next day from Sultanahmet to our second hotel, in Beyoglu, a previously run-down district, now reincarnated as the city’s after-hours playground.

Our next stop was Kanyon Mall in the swank Levent neighbourhood, more for its architecture than the shopping.

Back on Istiklal we grazed on yummy street food: stuffed mussels and clam sandwiches and Icli Koftes and profiteroles (from Inci pastanesi)! More walking, a shower & snooze later we were ready for dinner at Antiochia nearby. We loved the Durum (Lavash bread rubbed with red pepper and spices), the mezze, the ubiquitous kebabs and the almost Parisian Café atmosphere. Even the aubergine dessert (!!) was weirdly wonderful!

The baked potato on steroids -- photo by Jason D. Jones
Kumpir – Image credit Istanbul Eats

You cannot come to Istanbul and not cruise the Bhosphorus. So off we went sampling yoghurt at Kanlica and later disembarking at Sariyer. Then a taxi ride to Ortakoy and we just had to stop for Kumpir, (an Istanbul take on the baked potato) from a stall on the square. We watched as this guy split the hugest cooked potato and began mixing in an assortment of toppings including cheese, corn, peas, vegetable salad, pickled beets etc! Delish! A whole meal by itself, but we shared one since we had more treats to sample yet! Treats that guaranteed extra ‘padding’ for our trip back home.

Lunch was lip-smacking good Manti, tiny pasta parcels enclosing morsels of meat and doused in a garlicky, yoghurt sauce. We strolled around Taxsim in the evening and had our fortunes read at Melekler Kahvesi (Coffee House). Great fun! Worth drinking the thick black ‘mud’ that is Turkish coffee for!

Simit – Image credit Wikipedia

The concert at the Galata tower that night was very atmospheric and we dined at a fish restaurant called Furreya within sight of the Viennese Tower! Fresh salads, fantastic grilled Sea bass and butter fried prawns. A good change from all the kebabs of the past few days. On impulse we climbed up to 360 on the way back, for after dinner cocktails and fabulous panoramic night views. All in all a great day.

On our last morning we took the Tunel (Vintage underground funicular) to Karakoy for our stock of Gulluoglu Baklava to take home. Picked up Simits – sweet bread rings – from a vendor outside and stopped for delicious Turkish tea (pronounced Chay!) to sustain us till lunchtime. Next we browsed around the “tony” boutiques in Nisantasi. Finally, a leisurely lunch at ‘Sofyali 9’ of memorable mezze and hot fluffy Pita breads was a fitting finale to our fantastic culinary journey.

I remember reading somewhere that three parameters define a great city- history, beauty and a friendly people. We would add great food to the list and Istanbul we think has it all and is right up there at the top of our list of favourite cities!

Note: This is my first post without any images of my own (apart from the header), since I hardly ever took photos of food during my pre-blog days.

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Hi, I'm Madhu. Wanderer. Travel blogger. Story teller. Bitten late and hard by the travel bug, I am on a mission to make up for lost time.

91 thoughts on “The Culinary Delights Of Istanbul

  1. Wow what a great post that makes everyone ready to check airfares to istanbul! I had an unexpected chuckle when I read, “we always knew you were a fake…”
    Thank you for magically transporting us to Istanbul and for making me hungry for almost everything that you described and photographed! Z

    1. I love istanbul Z! It is like experiencing the exotic orient in an European setting. Would keep going back, if my pockets had been deeper and my bucket list shorter. Thanks for your lovely comments 🙂

    1. Absolutely Ledrake. Especially streetfood. And we have the advantage of our cast iron stomachs coming as we are from India 🙂

  2. Oh Madhu, I shouldn’t have read this before breakfast. Now scrambled eggs is going to seem pretty dull! What a wonderful array of photos and descriptions!

    1. This could very easily have been my entry for the dream challenge! The photos aren’t mine of course, except the header and the Baklava. Thanks Naomi 🙂

  3. I’m not surprised that you had extra padding for the return journey, Madhu. 😉 So many wonderful dishes to taste and try. I think I would have been the size of a house. Your photos are absolutely delicious. 😉

    1. Not mine AD, Most of the images are from Wiki. Strangely we don’t gain that much weight on vacation, considering the amount of food we eat, because we usually walk it all off. Thanks for reading 🙂

  4. Oh my goodness, I think I gained weight just reading this! You make everything sound wonderful… the Topik sounds awfully good, as does everything else. Great post!

  5. Madhu! What a brilliant degustation of the culinary delights of Istanbul! I’m a little envious of you both taking a special trip, just to savour the delights of living in the city for a few days, eating your way through the day’s delights, interspersed by a little sightseeing, shopping and concert going. A wonderful holiday indeed!

    I couldn’t agree with you more – good food, and places to partake of it – are essential ingredients of a great city, which Istanbul certainly is.

    Wonderful post.

    1. We are grateful to our friends who persuaded us to make this extra trip that year and whose company made it all the more enjoyable. Thanks TWLG 🙂

      1. Returning to a place that entranced you, or captured your imagination is such an enormous pleasure – to do it with friends must have been even more pleasurable. No wonder you had time to do more ‘normal’ things like galleries and eating out … 🙂

  6. Well what an endless feast your trip was!!! you must have gone home 10 pounds heavier 🙂 I only had three days in Istanbul as part of a tour but will go back an do it slowly sometime. I stayed between Taksim and Galata overlooking the Horn so this brings back memories!

    1. Those tours never leave you with much time, especially in the big cities. We spent a couple of extra days on the first visit and still couldn’t manage to fit in everything. So this providential return with another couple was very welcome. Glad you liked it Gilly.

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