Serengeti – The Gnu & Its Wanderlust

We very nearly missed the river crossings we had come to the Serengeti to witness. Rains arrived early this year. And the wildebeest herds, following some primal genetic coding that propels them on an arduous trek across the Savannah in search of fresh new grass, had already moved to the Northern plains. Perhaps even crossed over to the…

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The Incredible Destiny Of Mirza Ghiyas Beg!

R & I have had many turning points in our lives. Those serendipitous moments when things could so easily have gone the other way.  And we have often argued over whether these were mere co-incidences or karmic interventions. R believes in hard work and sagacity. I do too. I really do. But I am too much of a romantic to…

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The Magnificent Mausoleum Of Humayun

To the debate of wasps the dialectic of monkeys the chirping of statistics it offers (tall pink flame made of stone and air and birds time in repose on water) the architecture of silence” ~ Translation “El Mausoleo de Humayún by Octavio Paz Any experienced traveler should know better than to visit monuments that generate…

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Giving Delhi Its Due

Granted my earlier visits had been limited to meetings with modular furniture makers and interior contractors, but charm was still the last thing I expected to find in Delhi! An insidious allure that gets under your skin, even as you wilt in the heat and the pollution smothers your lungs. “Do tourists really get to know…

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The ‘Old Peak’ Of The Inca

“Remember to bury these under the Sun Gate.” Frank, our guide, handed over a bunch of coca leaves…. “For luck.” I carefully tucked the leaves into my pocket before boarding our train to Aguas Calientes. Frank was going to await our return to the Sacred Valley, the next evening. We lucked out with front row…

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The Mystical Inca Ruins Of Moray

Six concentric terraces surround a central circular ‘arena’ connected by a series of stone ‘steps’ fixed to the retaining walls in a radial pattern, mimicking the rays of the sun.  Six more surround them in an elliptical shape and another eight stepped terraces at the perimeter, span a portion of the narrow end of the…

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Egypt – The Sacred Guide Of The Celestial Barge

The Sphinx is even more impressive in reality than it appears in pictures. Unfortunately it is cordoned off and visitors are only allowed to view it from a distance and do not have access to the temple beneath. Still, we were totally overwhelmed by its enigmatic smiling face. The ancient Egyptians considered the Sphinx, the “Sacred…

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