UPDATED: OCTOBER 2020
You might have guessed by now how fond we are of exploring the streets and alleys of urban destinations on foot. By ourselves, or on guided walks led by locals in the know.
There is no better way to connect to a city than to get off the beaten path and watch real people. At work, and at play. To witness the rhythms and routines of their daily lives structured by the demands of family, job and religion.
We went on nine such walks last year, beginning with a walk through Montmarte in Paris, followed by three in Delhi, one in Lucknow, one in Varanasi and three more in Kolkata!
Montmarte aside, the rest were at times vivid and intense immersions into the diversity of (real) life in urban India.
Here is a gallery of people doing their thing, all from the walks in India…..not all technically perfect, but special to me for the memories they evoke.
Let’s begin with the ‘wallahs‘:
A nariyal-wallah (tender coconut seller) in the Malick Ghat flower market Kolkata.
From the same bazaar, a phool-wallah, or rather, a phool -carrier, in his marigold ‘skirt’.
A languorous ricksha-wallah! (I had just clicked the image that is my current background, when this man rushed in to claim ownership.)
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The mithai-wallah (a worker in Girish Chandra Dey & Nakur Chandra Nandi sweet shop, reputed to be the makers of the best Nolen Gur (new jaggery) Sandesh in town. Can’t vouch for the sandesh, but whatever we tasted was exceptional.)
And the second hand book-wallah from College Street. (OK, I just cooked up this ‘wallah’.)
A mali (gardner) on the grounds of the Agra Fort (Yes, that is the the Taj Mahal in the distance!)
I hope you remember my young chai-wallah?
And the lassi-wallah from Varanasi?
Also the paan-wallah from Old Delhi?
Then there is the butcher (who wouldn’t keep still long enough for a decent shot. I think he was just a happy soul.)
The (jaunty) barber…
A tinker (this Lucknowi gentleman crafts rings out of old coins),
Tailor? (Zardosi workers actually, but hey, I can see needles. And threads.)
Locksmith (This man fell out with his brothers, and opted for this tiny slice of a shop over a partnership in their larger space next door.)
And even a little thief!
Appreciate your tagging along. If you enjoyed this you might want to check out more posts from the People Of My Places category.
The Urge To Wander 
Amazing photos, Madhu, each telling their own story, but the Locksmith’s photo really stood out. It’s amazing he can do business in his “tiny slice of a shop”…and loved the cute little thief!
Lauren
Thank you Lauren. The locksmith seems to be the star of this series!
I so enjoyed this post Madhu! I remember the young boy from when I first started following you along with 2900 others ! Wow!
Thank you Kathryn. It is my pleasure to have you along on the ride 🙂
These types of photos where you get candid shots of people in their environment are my favorites . You travel such exotic places. I love seeing colorful parts of the world through your eyes Madhu. Cheers, Margie
Thank you Margie. Happy you enjoyed this gallery. I didn’t have to go too far to capture these 🙂
LOVED all of the pics! That butcher does seem too happy! 🙂
He certainly does! Thank you for your visit and comment 🙂
Hungry kitty!
I just had to include the bedraggled little fellow! 🙂 Appreciate your stopping by Pogirl.
Beautiful collection of pics Madhu!
Thank you ‘Kan’ 🙂
Reblogged this on EthaN MithanuN.
Your slices of street life in India make some U.S. cities seem dull in comparison!
India certainly does not skimp on colour and drama Elisa 🙂
Great photos, Madhu. Rich in culture and tradition and reality. I too wondered where all the women are. Man’s work, I expect. We leave for India in two weeks and unfortunately won’t be making it to Chennai and really wished we could have met. (Next time) What do you think of the following street walk in Delhi? http://www.salaambaalaktrust.com/ You blogged on one of your guides in Delhi and I would love for you to point me to that post/guide again. Because of your post on step wells, we’ll be going to two in Delhi, one in Jaipur and one in Samode.
Thank you Lynne. What a pity that we will not be able to meet. but I understand your time constraints. Happy though that you have included so many stepwells! I look forward to reading all about it.
We did not use Salaam Balak trust, but have heard great things about them. I certainly hope to try them on a future trip. We used three companies in Delhi…Delhi Heritage Walks, Delhi by Foot and one group tour with the Indian National Trust for Art and Cultural Heritage (INTACH). The former two also have scheduled tours on weekends that are a lot cheaper than their private tours. I have linked to them here, but you could also search my Delhi posts, mainly ‘Giving Delhi its Due‘.
Hoping you have a great visit Lynne. Do drop me a mail if you need any more help.
Thanks, Madhu for the link to your post and to the different walks. I will check them out and settle on one. At last, I’m getting to visit India and celebrate our 50th anniversary as well. 🙂
Happy anniversary to Ron and you in advance! Have a great one 🙂
Each picture told a rich story – full of character and grit 🙂
Glad you enjoyed this photo essay Eric. Thank you for your kind words.
colorful and the smiling butcher is my favorite 🙂
Thanks Joshi 🙂
Love your photos, Madhu. These are real gritty shots – documenting daily life. Fascinating 🙂
Thanks Marianne. Glad you enjoyed this.
These are truly wonderful shots of life. Always the best is when you simply wander with a camera.
Always! Thanks Valentine.
Most beautiful post and spontaneous images, so full of life!!! Thank you Madhu for sharing.
Thank you Cornelia. That email I promised you is still in my drafts folder! Shall get it out over the weekend. Hope I am not too late.
Thank you so much Madhu. No worries I know we are all busy in the global world.
It’s the people! It really is the people that you can really the very sense of the destination. This is one of your best sets ever! You do this well, Madhu. I need your charm to be comfortable photographing people, setiously.
Many thanks for the generous compliments Rommel! I think you are being too modest 🙂 I was uncomfortable too, at first. It is just a question of getting over the initial self consciousness.
Although we do some of the touristy things when we visit a new place by far the richest experiences are when you get off the beaten path and dig a little deeper. Lovely post Madhu!
You are so right. Thank you Luann.
It is so interesting to see how a different part of the world lives…the second hand bookstore…I would of been there for hours☺
That street is a landmark in the city Laurie. Thank you for dropping by.
Such an industrious nation, India, Madhu! I liked the “meanie” guy with his own personal lock space. He looks friendly enough 🙂 And that marigold skirt is quite something! Did you talk to them as you wandered, or just ask permission for the photos?
We talked to some of them Jo, not all. the ‘skirt guy was just passing by, so we didn’t even ask for permission 😉 By the way, that ‘meanie’ locksmith was featured by WordPress in a compilation of 12 shots from around the world!!
Fabulous! Do you have a link to the post? 🙂
Here it is: http://en.blog.wordpress.com/2014/02/26/twelve-photos/
Thank you! 🙂
You were in great company, and you still shone! 🙂
Aww, are you sure that isn’t a biased opinion? 🙂
Absolutely not 🙂 🙂
🙂
I mean Lucknow and Kolkata 🙂
We especially liked Lucknow, although there wasn’t that much to do there. Thanks for stopping by Kalpana.
Lovely shots ! I’ll have to visit this place one day 🙂
awesome spice of life photos.
i am your fan madhu!
Oh thank you dear Ana!!! I am flattered 😀
I love these images, Madhu! Bursting with life and colour, and I can almost hear the sounds and imagine the smells emanating from the mithai-, paan- and chaiwallahs. Your invention of the term ‘bookwallah’ brought a smile to my face… all this is a reminder that I really must come to India sometime, hopefully next year!
Thanks James. And I am delighted that you are planning a trip to India! Let me know if you plan on coming down South and if I can help in any way.
I love your street photos, Madhu. The joy in the butcher’s face, the colorful displays and … too bad … about missing out on that tasty treat. It probably really was excellent. 😉
Happy you enjoyed my gallery Judy. Yes missing out on the special jaggery treat was a bit disappointing, but I did get to taste it elsewhere.
A wonderful wallah tour Madhu, not only the colourful sights but the stories to go with them – imagine the locksmith’s family get together!
That was part of the fun Patti…imagining their stories 🙂
I love these. You’ve captured the essence of life there. I love it when my pictures do that, so know how these must bring the memory of it back for you.
🙂 Thank you Juliann.
I love your photos! Reminds me of my recent trip to India (Delhi, Agra, Jaipur and Pushkar). The butcher picture looks a bit gruesome though!
It does, but I was struck by how his demeanor belied his gruesome occupation 🙂 Happy to have stirred fond memories. Thank you for stopping by.
Thanks for taking us all along with you. I love the amazing variety of interesting people. I’d love to go there sometime.
My pleasure entirely David. You would find plenty of fodder here for your imaginative flash fiction 🙂
Stunning street captures Madhu! I love the one with all the books! You will find me lingering there for sure. Thanks for sharing. 😀 *hugs*
Thank you for your visit and comment Sonel 🙂
Great shots which are pretty much the same as they are in Bangladesh. I was pleased I understood all the Hindi (?) being used to, with just slight alterations it is the same as the Bengali I know and love. Now I’m back in the UK I think I love your photos of India all the more because of how closely related they are to my beloved Bangladesh. At the same time, India captures my heart in another, very special, way.
Thank you for taking the time to share your thoughts Ken. The election poster behind the Panwallah is in Hindi. Bengali script as used in West Bengal, and I assume in Bangladesh as well, differs distinctly from Hindi. I hope you are able to return soon 🙂
Yes, we used Bangla from Kolkata all the way up to Darjeeling when we visited and had no problem being understood.
I was referring to the terms you used which I could understand well. Hindi is different in script and sound but both languages are close enough that I can read the script well enough and often, with just changing some of the vowel sounds, I can understand Hindi too. I am learning the language little by little but it no longer surprises me that so many Bangladeshi kids can speak and understand Hindi fluently from simply watching Indian TV for so many years of their childhood!
Very apt pictures.Caught in the act!
Great job…I meant yours,
And all the wallahs…who in India is not acquainted with a few of them at least . I really love the way you capture the essence of their livelihood.
Oh thank you for the compliments Gulsum! Much appreciated 🙂
Wow! That was indeed a beautiful trip down the alleys of India. 🙂 Is there any place more vibrant and colorful than this part of the world? I can’t answer that because I haven’t traveled even one hundredth part of the globe. 🙂
Yes India is certainly very photgenic. Cleaning up our alleys, would make them even more so 🙂 Thanks for joining me on my walks Rekha.
That is a colorful and fun array of street shots! Thank you for the tour, Madhu 🙂
You are most welcome…thank you Amy.
Phew … a lot of work indeed but worth it, Madhu!! 🙂
I imagine you must be feeling just as exhausted after all the unpacking! Have a great weekend Marina 🙂
I think exhaustion is creeping in… You too have a beautiful weekend, Madhu. 🙂
oh thanks for having us along with you on those walks Madhu, such a thrill to see all your wallahs up close, I can smell the aromas and hear the sounds only too vividly from your images! the laughing butcher, the young chaiwallah, the languorous rickshawallah and the phool carrier are my favourites 🙂
It is my pleasure Christine…thank you for your company, and the kind comments 🙂
Locksmith is my favourite …followed by the second hand book wallah …I miss India…
Will you believe it, Wordpess picked just that one for a compilation of 12 shots from around the world?!!!
Here’s the link: http://en.blog.wordpress.com/2014/02/26/twelve-photos/
Congratulations Madhu – what a great choice!
Wonderful shots of street images of people at work.
BE ENCOURAGED! BE BLESSED!
Glad you enjoyed these Francine. Many thanks.
I had to chuckle at myself when I read your first sentence here, Madhu: “You might have guessed by now how fond we are of exploring the streets and alleys of urban destinations on foot.”
It would never have occurred to me to do anything else!! I would never feel like I could connect otherwise. So I never thought about this in your postings. No wonder I enjoy yours so much! 🙂
And I yours Riba 🙂 Thank you.
Such interesting images. What a loss it will be when ‘shops’ eventually replace these hardworking artisans. From my very early childhood I remember the ‘wallahs’ noticeably the paniwallah (water) and the chaiwalla. Great photos. My fav is the rickshawwallah.
Now that you mention it, I don’t think I have ever seen a paniwallah!! I have no doubt time is numbered for the rest as well. Thanks Tony.
thank goodness you like to wander Madhu…for your journeys lighten my soul
Thank you Jo!!! What a lovely thing to say 🙂
Just telling the truth.
Means a lot Jo.
Thank you. That brought back memories of my own happy wanderings. Life is more interesting away from the fancy suburbs isn’t it?
Absolutely Ian. Happy to have stirred fond memories 🙂
Very interesting, Madhu. Thank you. Where are all the women by the way? I suppose you are going to make a separate post?
Thank you Subhan. The thought crossed my mind while I was compiling this post! The trades shown here traditionally don’t employ women, although I do see the odd female autorickshaw driver. The ratio of female vendors is pretty high in markets though. The rest are most probably back in the villages tending their lands or working on construction sites or as housemaids. Not sure if it is gender bias or just a more practical distribution of work. Could be both 🙂
Subhan, why does your name link to a Japanese site???
Those poor birds, having to look at their late friends! Lead me to the lassiwallah 🙂
You should see how they are transported Gilly……upside down with their legs tied together in a bunch!!! Yep, the lassiwallah is a safe bet 🙂
Wonderful pictures of daily lives in our country. Great work!!
Thank you Arindam 🙂
Excellent documentations of life.
Thank you Rabirius.
Marvelous set of street photography that tells stories of everyday life.
Thank you Sally.
Fabulous photos, Madhu! Indeed, there is nothing like walking off the tourist track to really see and feel the place you are visiting.
Thank you Angeline. I can see from your people pictures from Mexico, how much you enjoy doing the same.
What a wonderful post! I particularly loved the barber shops on my visit to India, and how handsome the men looked after a visit.
Not sure how good this guy was Debra……I would have been mighty nervous if my barber was doing his job with one hand shoved in his pocket 🙂
Lovely street shots.
Thank you Niranjan.
I love the picture of the butcher. What a happy face. There is suspense in the cat picture. Will he be able to have at least a lick of the bird?
Thanks for the photos, Madhu. I like their candid quality. It’s like being there, too. 🙂
I just had to include that little bedraggled kitten 🙂 Thank you Imelda
Character-filled images, each of them. Loved it.
Happy you did. Thank you Kat.