Evolve Back Safari Lodge – A Kabini River Romance

Orange County Kabini

This is our first time in Kabini during the rains. Our two previous visits were deliberately planned around the dry period between February – April, when the parched land forces its wild denizens out into clearings around the river, almost guaranteeing big cat sightings. This time it is the jungle that is the hero, in […]

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Our First Airbnb Experience And Why It Won’t Be Our Last

I wake up to the aroma of freshly brewed coffee, just as R walks in with a bag of flaky croissants from the patisserie nearby. As we devour them along with half a kilo of luscious strawberries, sweet yogurt and creamy Pag cheese from the daily market, we ask ourselves why we have steered clear of apartments so far. R jokes […]

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Thanjavur – Reimagining Tamil Traditions At Svatma,

Svatma, Tanjavur

Loss of diversity, especially in the urban milieu, is inevitable in a globalised world. Pizza will often replace paniyaram. Or cappuccino, filter kaapi. But what does one do when one’s native cultural symbols begin to feel inadequate? Unsophisticated? The Subrahmaniam’s – Chennai based dancer/architect Krithika, and her developer husband, Sumant’s – response to their young son’s disenchantment with things Indian, was to find a way to reintroduce him […]

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Bespoke Luxury at La Villa Pondicherry

An unassuming gate, that we drive past twice, opens into a small, leafy courtyard dominated by our restored 19th century ‘manor’ hotel: the former Villa Notre-Dame de la Garde, one time residence of the principal of the French school opposite. Now re-christened La Villa. We find the sparingly restored facade charming. We are relieved to discover, however, that the distressed charm ends at […]

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The Grand Dame Of Chowringhee

After expertly navigating the impossibly clogged route from the airport, our taxi coasted to a halt in front of a colonnaded arcade teeming with what seemed like half the population of Calcutta. “This can’t be it” I muttered to R in dismay, while he peered out with equal skepticism. Then a pair of wrought iron gates […]

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