The Incredible Destiny Of Mirza Ghiyas Beg!

R & I have had many turning points in our lives. Those serendipitous moments when things could so easily have gone the other way.  And we have often argued over whether these were mere co-incidences or karmic interventions. R believes in hard work and sagacity. I do too. I really do. But I am too much of a romantic to […]

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The Simplicity Of Perfection!

Taj Mahal, - Agra, India

How do I begin to define a structure that is more iconic brand than historic monument? A name that instantly conjures up romance and grandeur even when claimed by a humble tea stall, let alone some of the finest hotels and resorts? And whose Chinese made plastic likenesses outnumber the citizens of this overpopulated land? The Taj […]

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The Light Of Faith

Ganga Aarti - Varanasi, India

The crowded, choreographed, almost Bollywoodesque obeisance to the Ganga in Varanasi, is more spectacle than religious ritual. Performed daily at sunrise and sunset, the Ganga aarti was conceived by the savvy pujari (temple priest) Babu Maharaj in 1992, and it’s  popularity has spawned more such spectacles in other cities along the banks of India’s holiest […]

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From A Morning Walk In Varanasi

A mid-morning chai break. See that lady in the blue sari in the background? R is convinced she is the old man’s wife…..”No question!”. Her body language (see below), according to him, resembles mine during the days when I briefly tried to give up all caffeinated beverages in the vain hope of losing my weight […]

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Reflections On Our Road Trip

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We are back from our 1700 kilometer road trip – excluding our flight to and from Delhi – that covered more tombs and places of worship than we have visited in all our years of travel! It was an intense roller coaster ride into centuries of Indian history in reverse, from imperial New Delhi to […]

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