High up on the hills bounding the French riviera, like some lofty nests of birds of prey, sit the villages perchés.
The perched villages, originally built as defensive fortifications against marauding pirates and invading armies, fell into disrepair postwar, receiving a new lease of life over the next decade, when coastal residents restored the crumbling buildings to their former glory. Then renowned artists like Renoir and Matisse decided to call them home, and led to the influx of an avalanche of tourists.
Cagnes Sur Mer was Renoir’s final home, but somehow escaped the fate of St Paul de Vence and similar hill towns, while retaining much of its tranquil charm, thanks mainly to its residents dogged resistance to commercialisation.
Cagnes Sur Mer comprises the lower and relatively modern town of the same name and the medieval Haut de Cagnes capping the hill. The two are connected by a navette (shuttle) that plies the route every 15 minutes until 10pm. On the other side is the rather overdeveloped fishing village and beach resort called Cros de Cagnes.
We chose Haut Cagnes as our base to explore the Cote d’Azur, as much for its visual and architectural appeal as for its proximity to Nice and the fact that the lower town was a major transport hub for the area. Nice, Vence, St Paul de Vence, Antibe, Eze, were all minutes away by bus or train.
At the core of the lovely village is the little square, lined with a handful of wonderful restaurants and dominated by the Chateau Grimaldi, whose ramparts reward one with panoramic views over the countryside, all the way to the millionaire coast in the distance!
Our charming B&B overlooked the square where the entire village seemed to congregate in the evenings, and we spent many hours people watching and witnessing Boule contests. Even mock sword fights between petit knights!
Our favourite passtime though, apart from exploring those narrow cobbled streets, was to carry a bottle of our favourite wine (stocks replenished at an excellent store downhill) out to a bench on the edge of town, and watch the light fade across the valley.
The Urge To Wander 
Love your photos Madhu. Thanks for the tour of another part of the world. It helps discredit those that propagandize hatred of other countries.
Thank you Jerry. You are so right! Travel makes us realise that people are just people, however alien their cultures.
We all are one. There is no separation, only the belief in separation makes it so. That will soon come to an end. 😉
Oh, Madhu. I am in love. Haut Cagnes looks like a place I would love to stay in for awhile. You must have had a wonderful time there, and I love your evening ritual.
We did Angeline. And we really looked forward to returning ‘home’ every evening 🙂
What a great respite – to take your wine and enjoy the serenity of the moment! what more could one want?! I’m so glad that you have an enriching life! z
Thank you Lisa. Now we need to work towards making our daily routines (at home) as relaxing 🙂
Loved the tour and your photo’s as usual Madhu. It’s so beautiful there. Thanks for sharing hon. 🙂 *hugs*
Thank you Sonel 🙂
You’re welcome hon. 🙂 *hugs*
A wonderful post, Madhu, which is what we’ve come to expect.
So nice of you to say that Stephen…..thank you so much for reading 🙂
No, it’s my pleasure. Your posts are a pleasure to see and read.
Flattered Stephen! Thanks again 🙂
35 years ago I was here ….. we could have stayed at the same little “pension” – wonderful spot, but the whole of Cote d’Azur is so beautiful .. had forgotten about this little village. Thanks for reminding me. Had a “boyfriend” living in Monte Carlo .. in the beginning of the 1970’s, we meet in 1972 and it carried on for a couple of years. St Paul de Vence, is my little favorite spot ..down there.
Madhu, wonderful post and … and fantastic photo, as Bumba said .. we wouldn’t expect anything else from you. Thank you so much for bringing me back *smile
A romance on the riviera! What an exciting life you have led Viveka! Would love to know more about your French boyfriend sometime 🙂 And thank you so much for the kind words.
He was Greek, but lived in Monaco … never had a French boyfriend … they are not my type *smile
Have been thinking about doing a post about him, Byron … dead since many years back now.
No wonder Matisse and Renoir called them home!!!
🙂
Yes, the entire Provence-Alps-Maritime region is so incredibly picturesque, it is easy to understand the fascination of artists for these towns.
A charming little village, I like to stay in such real places.
Me too Gilly, even when R worries about the logistics. This one proved perfect in every way.
Beautiful, relaxing scenes Madhu. Sun, shade and blue skies!
It is the Riviera after all Patti 🙂
It was August and very hot, and the rest of the Riviera was awfully crowded. Felt good to have this little haven to get back to each evening.
A beautiful place, Madhu…
Truly a special place in the world. You are such a traveler Madhu and you capture these places so beautifully.
It looks wonderfully tranquil, Madhu. Love the colour of the stone. 🙂
I always learn so much about the places you visit in your posts and truly enjoy the photos. Thank you for sharing them. Take care. -Max-
Another quick tourist experience 🙂 Thank you, Madhu. Love your format.
Cheers, Eric
Sounds as lovely as a dream.
Beautiful, Thank you for sharing.
Beautiful photos Madhu, especially the header one 🙂 I have been wanting to go there for quite some time.
what a beautiful place! we have been wondering where to go next time we are in France … this gives me an idea thank you Madhu 🙂
Looks like a great place.
Just loved this !!!
ah,the pleasure of opening your blog and browsing through the posts on a sunday evening!
the photos -downright marvellous!
Thanks for showing us another beautiful part of the world. Sharing a bottle at day’s end, overlooking the countryside…heavy sigh. 🙂
It looks very peaceful and relaxing here. With or without wine. 😉
Certainly one of these history charged villages of the Cote d’Azur, a real City of Artists, not only Renoir, but with such painters as Ziem, Derain, Cezanne and Modigliani who all helped to make this city famous. Great pictures!
What a charming place. No wonder Renoir lived here.
What a beautiful place to hang your hat even if only for a few days. Thanks for sharing, Madhu.
I think I was once in Renoir’s house — your photograph reminds me, but as if in a dream, long ago —
A really charming village, Madhu. Love the view from the ramparts, and also from the Chateau Grimaldi.
Beautiful! Looks like a place I would enjoy visiting!