Guggenheim Bilbao – A Spectacular Symbol of Renewal

When we dashed across, nearly a decade ago, on a (crazy) day trip from Barcelona to Bilbao just to gaze upon those stunning overlapping waves of shimmering titanium, we were clueless about the city’s history of industrial decline, or of the conception of the Guggenheim museum as an icon of urban reinvention. 

It is hard to imagine that the stretch of the Nervión that the sinuous structure straddles once ran dank and fetid with effluents, its banks congested with shipyards and steel furnaces. It is that very harsh industrial aesthetic, that allegedly inspired renowned American architect Frank Gehry’s design. So outrageously conspicuous in that setting that it more often than not distracts from the valuable collections it hosts.

That ‘WOW’ factor was the brief for this private-public enterprise between the Basque administration and the Guggenheim foundation. Part of an extravagant, visionary plan by the city council to regenerate economic prosperity and Basque identity that has paid for itself many times over since its 1997 opening.

The ‘Bilbao effect’, as this huge urban renaissance with the use of flagship architecture is referred to, has its share of critics who deride the franchising and internationalising of art and culture. ‘McGuggenheim’ is a new addition to my vocabulary! But all we perceived during our visit last week was the great sense of civic pride the edifice inspires among Bilbainos. And the hope it symbolises for cities with putrid rivers.

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Hi, I'm Madhu. Wanderer. Travel blogger. Story teller. Bitten late and hard by the travel bug, I am on a mission to make up for lost time.

19 thoughts on “Guggenheim Bilbao – A Spectacular Symbol of Renewal

  1. Magnificent photos Madhu, and a beautifully succinct appraisal of its role. Oddly I’d just read a brief account of ‘museum’-architecture as a mode of urban renewal in the magazine of the National Gallery of Australia. But your post gives me a sense of the beauty, not just the politics. You’ve captured building and surrounds superbly, not an easy thing to do I imagine.

  2. Sometimes we poor humans have a hard time conceptualizing creative art. The very best of our attempts in no way compare with the majesty of the Himalayas for example.

  3. Wonderful photo and the impact that the Guggenheim museum has had on Bilbao – shows how good planning and architecture can positively impact the people and economy.

  4. A real work of genius but probably a headache for the engineers! The Guggenheim Bilbao really started a trend – now every city wanting a place on the global stage is clamouring for an art museum designed by a ‘starchitect’. The usual suspects being Zaha Hadid, Lord Norman Foster, Jean Nouvel and Frank Gehry himself.

    I could be jaded from those years of architecture school, but there is a nagging feeling that Gehry was not really inspired by Bilbao’s industrial past. His earlier buildings show an obsession with fish and metallic scales. I saw one Gehry creation in Berlin and another in Toronto that had echoes of that same aesthetic. The fact that his design resonated so well with its location might just have been a happy accident!

    1. James I am sure you are right. I might have mistakenly assumed that those buildings you mention came after. I read about Gehry’s disapproval of the beautification of the area since it went against his concept for his ‘tough’ design. And also of the indignation in some quarters in the Basque region over his repeated use of this style which was meant to be ‘unique’.

      I am not a huge fan of such architecture, but this one is an exception. His (similar) design of the bodegas Marques de Riscal was distinctly underwhelming.

      As for the duplication of the Bilbao effect using ‘starchitects’, it somehow doesn’t seem to have worked as well for those that followed as it did for Bilbao. Perhaps a matter of timing.

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