I first spotted the distinctive patterned street mosaics on Senado Square in Macau, in 2009. Then again, a couple of years later, in Rio de Janeiro.
They were strong reminders of the stories of the first global explorations, of the age of discoveries initiated by one of the largest colonial empires in history. It is surprising that Goa, the capital of the Portuguese empire in the Orient, or the other Portuguese influenced towns (including my hometown, Mangalore,) on the west coast of india failed to hold on to this symbolic feature.
The emblematic art form – Calçada Portuguesa – is healthily abundant in much of Portugal. The streets of almost every historic city centre are paved with limestone mosaics with black basalt inserts ranging in pattern from simple repetitive lines or grids to some elaborate curlicues.
In the Azores sidewalks the colours are reversed since they mine more basalt and need to import limestone from the mainland.
Calçada in its current form was first used in 1842, in the gardens of Sao Jorge castle designed by lieutenant-general Eusébio Pinheiro Furtado (then governor of the castle) and executed by captives in the castle prison. Six years later, lieutenant-general Furtado’s design for Rossio square (Praça de Dom Pedro IV ) – a series of mind-bending curves titled ‘The Wide Ocean’ – was approved by the city council.
It was a matter of time before the mosaic paving spilled over onto the streets and pavements of Lisbon and of all Portugal.
The limestone paving worn shiny smooth with use, makes for treacherously slippery streets especially when wet. It is standard advice for visitors to Portugal – to Lisbon and Porto in particular – to wear ‘sensible’ shoes with proper grip.
As on many previous trips, my pretty evening slip-ons with leather soles were only used twice during our entire visit, and then involved stepping with great caution. They’ll probably stay home on the next.
PORTUGAL ON YOUR RADAR? 📌 PIN FOR LATER
The evening shot of Municipio is absolutely stunning, Madhu. Loving the new look to the blog 🙂 🙂
Thank you darling Jo. Also for the link back to the Brussels post.The blog revamp is sheer procrastination 🙂
I know that feeling too 🙂 🙂
What a sense of observation! The difference between the calçadas of the Açores and the rest of the country is worth knowing.
The visual creativity in Portugal does not cease to surprise us! Our first love remains with the tiled facades of the buildings which is really a fundamental contribution to architectural design. But the streets ~ calzada are yet another richly deserving design feature. We really enjoyed the streets of Lisbon for this reason and looking at your photographs brought back those lovely visuals and then some….. Did not realize how pervasive the practice is. Thanks for a terrific post.
Peta & Ben
Those pavements are amazing. Simply beautiful.
You had me with the nautical patterns! Would love to visit here.
I came to wish you a good 2018 Madhu as I realized I hadn’t seen you in awhile. The mosaics are amazing. Happy travels and hope all is well with you.
Best, Ruth in Pittsburgh.
Beautiful captures, Madhu. These are real works of art. I remember being fascinated by the pavements in Rio. Happy New Year to you.
Big fan of Portugal’s calçadas too! They’re utterly impractical and obscenely expensive to maintain, but absolutely stunning.
Have a great 2018,
Verne
Wow, this is like a work of art. Not only is the pavement functional, but these street mosaics are so beautiful and aesthetically pleasing, instead of a drab cement or asphalt.