A River Runs Through It….

A virtual journey through some special river moments from around the world. From sublime do-before-you-die experiences on ancient bodies of water to the storied rivers that birthed each of the European cities I travelled to in 2017 and singularly influenced their destinies.

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Thanjavur – The Forgotten Cenotaphs

Raja Gori, also known as Kailasa Mahal, is a complex of Maratha era funerary temples in Thanjavur. Possibly the only one of its kind in Tamilandu. A place few outsiders visit and that even some local guides are unaware of.

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Kabini – A River Romance

This is our first time in Kabini during the rains. Our two previous visits were deliberately planned around the dry period between February – April, when the parched land forces its wild denizens out into clearings around the river, almost guaranteeing big cat sightings. This time it is the jungle that is the hero, in…

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Ekadanta – The Single Tusked One

  A chance encounter, for me as sublime as if I had come face to face with his divine namesake! This was my first time on a boat safari….thanks to Evolve Back Kuruba Safari Lodge. Back soon with more from Kabini. Stay well.

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Thanjavur – Sublime Chola Heritage

I am not a temple goer.  I find the energy and fervour and the attendant din of a crowded temple distracting. Rare visits on special occasions are more nostalgic concessions to tradition, rather than opportunities for communion with God. But the vibe at each of the three temples that constitute the UNESCO inscribed ‘Great Living Chola Temple‘ ensemble was different. And visiting…

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Hampi – Experiencing The Spirit Of The Land

Located just four km from the edge of the famed UNESCO heritage site, the Orange County Hampi is the third in the Orange County stable, and surely its grandest. A gorgeous reinterpretation of the spirit of royal Vijayanagara.

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Hampi – The Echoes of Glory

The empire is long gone. Its relics scattered across a breathtaking boulder strewn landscape once chosen for its impregnability. Desolate ruins, lacking the antiquity of Egypt, the precision of Inca stonework or the mathematical coding of Angkor Wat. But Hampi’s stones – those chiselled by man into intricate divine forms, as well as those worn smooth by the elements – whisper stories.…

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Sacred Waters

Water – as life giver and as a symbol of purity – is an essential component of religious rituals like baptism and ceremonial cleansing. For a religion that derives its name from a river – Sindhu, from the Indus – water takes on a whole new meaning. No Hindu temple is complete without a Pushkarini or temple tank. Many tanks have natural sources beneath…

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