Venice – Beyond San Marco

San Marco’s monumental magnificence aside, it was a relief to escape its relentless crowds and persistent fake bag vendors. My second hotel, the Al Ponte Mocenigo in the sestiere Santa Croce was far enough away from the touristy center to feel local, while being close enough to the Stan Stae vaporetto stop to remain connected.

In my four full days there – not including the day-trip to Bologna – I discovered the pleasure of unplanned exploration. Of picking one random activity each morning and letting my day evolve naturally thereafter depending upon my mood. And the weather of course.

For a person that micro manages every minute travel detail, it felt vastly liberating.  And surprisingly, I managed to fit in a lot despite all the aimless wandering and quite a bit of backtracking, that would never have taken place on one of my super organised trips.

DSC_3153 copy
Mirrored mansions.

The highlights in no particular order were: A long afternoon on the island of Torcello, losing count of the number of exquisite Bellinis, Tintorettos, Canalettos and more (still in the churches they were originally commissioned for.), the Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari with its glorious Titians and mausoleums, attending a performance of Madame Butterfly in the fabulous Teatro la Fenice, browsing through the Rialto markets, learning the difference between piazza (the one & only!) piazzetta and campo from a total stranger on the vaporetto, hanging around parochial campos (squares) at dusk to people watch.

The silence! The hushed, whispering, strangely comforting silence on the walk back after dinner save for the occasional splash of an oar or the bells from a nearby campanile.

And most of all, swapping my map for random yellow signs on the walls of narrow, mysterious alleys steeped in rich and ancient history. Getting lost in this most clichéd of cities was a cliché worth exploring.

Venice
Salute stop named after the church of the same name
Venice - Vaporetto
Vaporetto approaching stop
Venice - Campo Santo Stefano
People watching on Campo Santo Stefano

Venice - Campo dei Gesuiti
Football in the shadow of the ornate I Gesuiti, also known as Santa Maria dei Assunta

Venice - Clothesline

Venice Pesceria
At the Rialto Pesceria (fish market)
Venice - Campo San Trovaso
Campo San Trovaso – where gondolas are still built and repaired.
Venice - Isabella Teotochi Albrizzi
The salon of Countess Isabella Teotochi Albrizzi, whose soirees included arists and writers such as Ugo Foscolo, Lord Byron, Ippolito Pindemonte and Antonio Canova.

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Hi, I'm Madhu. Wanderer. Travel blogger. Story teller. Bitten late and hard by the travel bug, I am on a mission to make up for lost time.

102 thoughts on “Venice – Beyond San Marco

  1. Aimless wandering was always the highlight of travel for me. And you’re right – there’s no need to fear that you won’t get anything done or seen – everything around is new to see! And you’ve captured it so beautifully, as usual.

    I think Venice, in particular, lends itself to this kind of sightseeing.

      1. I’m stuck here for another year or so, Madhu (don’t ask – pension rules) but as soon as I can I need to go to Switzerland to see my oldest friend and you can be sure I’ll hop right on the Venice train! 🙂

  2. The photos are magnificent but the tour through your adventures deserves cheers. I’ve been captivated by every
    photo on your slides. You have taken me to places on your adventure I will never see. Thank you for taking me along.
    A fabulous post no matter what category you want to place it in. ❤ : )

  3. Unplanned exploration is the best way to go 🙂 Thank you for this wonderful share, Madhu. Your selected reflection photo is magnificent.

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