A River Runs Through It….

“Eventually, all things merge into one, and a river runs through it. The river was cut by the world’s great flood and runs over rocks from  the basement of time. On some of the rocks are timeless raindrops. Under the rocks are the words, and some of the words are theirs. I am haunted by waters.”

~ Norman Maclean

It isn’t that I do not appreciate the beauty of oceans. I have so often revelled in the sound of the sea, been lulled into sleep by the rhythm of calming waves washing over soft sandy beaches. Have been awed by the sheer fury of a stormy sea relentlessly pummelling magnificent craggy cliffs and experienced the blissful silent stillness far out in the middle of the ocean on terrifying catamaran rides.

It is a gently flowing river, however, that runs through my nostalgic daydreams.I suspect my connection with rivers goes beyond the fact that I grew up beside one. It feels like a genetic memory tied to a time long before paved roads replaced the waterways to ancestral villages where row boats were the preferred modes of transport.

My oldest memories are intertwined with rivers and boats. Much anticipated visits to ancestral homes along the backwaters. Endless summer evenings spent on the stone benches along its banks watching otter mums fiercely protecting their pups from ours. Watching roof tiles being loaded onto boats that carried them to waiting dhows on the horizon.

I learned early that rivers aren’t always benign. One time, a young girl, the teenaged sister of a labourer in our tile factory went missing. Two days later her body was found several miles upstream. I remember pre-empting my mother’s ban and quietly slipping away from the back door with a cousin to join the crowd gawking around their house. The horror of that day has long faded, but the picture of the disfigured face of that unfortunate girl still pops into my mind when I remember the river. And then the memories of good times crowd it out.

I didn’t ‘see’ the river then. Never perceived it as a thing of beauty. Didn’t realise how much a part of my subconscious it was and would continue to be. It was just there. Swollen brown in the incessant monsoons of the region. Diminished but bright jade in the summer sun.

“What a beautiful world it was once. At least a river of it was.”

I only have that one image of the river from my childhood. But let me take you on a virtual journey through some special river moments I have gathered from around the world. From sublime do-before-you-die experiences on ancient bodies of water to the storied rivers that birthed each of the European cities I travelled to in 2017 and singularly influenced their destinies.Boat ride on the GangesFirst, an obeisance to the Ganga (Ganges) – that most sacred of Indian rivers in India’s holiest city.

Boat ride on the Hooghly

A sunset ride on her tributary, the Hooghly, in Kolkata was an unexpectedly tranquil experience far removed from the ‘City of Joy’ imagery of the city.Felucca on the NileA dreamy afternoon on the Nile (Aswan) is a highlight of any Egypt itinerary.The mighty Mekong followed our footsteps across Indochina. Above, a slow boat ride in Luang Prabang.A sublime nine day cruise down the Irrawaddy.I highly recommend bar hopping with a view of the Chao Phraya (Bangkok)A whole day out on the Tigre (day-trip from Buenos Aires)Can you beat a walk along the Siene? (Paris)The beautiful Rhone and the abandoned pont d’AvignonMaastricht takes its name from the river Maas (Meuse).Admiring the skyline of Antwerp from the left bank of the Scheldt.The Tagus: the lifeline of Lisbon.The Douro snakes through steep terraced valleys that are home to the region’s signature spirit…And then it cuts through charming Porto enroute to its date with the Atlantic.

PS: My digitised slides of the Thames, the Tiber and the Rhine did not pass muster…..time to return 🙂

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Hi, I'm Madhu. Wanderer. Travel blogger. Story teller. Bitten late and hard by the travel bug, I am on a mission to make up for lost time.

52 thoughts on “A River Runs Through It….

  1. I get excited about river cruises because I grew up in an urban area, thus have always been curious about ways of life and activities by the riverbank. Your post reminds me of my travels this past 2 weeks – I had gone on river cruises on the Mekong in North-East Thailand close to the Laos border and Nam Ou in northern Laos. It’s amazing to see rivers are lifelines to communities living in those areas.

    1. The North-East Thailand cruise sounds wonderful. I agree. River cruises are fascinating for the intimate connection to local culture they offer as opposed to large impersonal ocean cruises.

      Apologies for the much belated response Kathleen. Have been continuously on the go since mid July and missed this somehow. Appreciate your stopping by. Have a lovely day 🙂

  2. While wandering around on the river Search, I spotted your lead picture in this article among dozens of others, yet I knew immediately who and where it was, and the river floated me back to you. What a beautiful piece of illustrated writing you have learned to craft, Madhu. Reading your work is like stepping aboard a favorite sailboat and letting the graceful skipper trim the sails to the wind and currents while she spins an overpowering yarn of voyage, discovery, peacefulness and charm. Like your other fans, we’ll follow you to the ends of the earth, then fold up our screens having learned to take a fresh look on life. Many many thanks for taking the time to push your perspective into the deep recesses of our memories and minds Madhu.

    1. Whitt, thank you ever so much for your beautiful words of appreciation. I have been struggling to keep this blog updated for a while. It is feedback such as this that keeps me from winding it all up. I sometimes feel my friends repose more faith in my abilities than I do myself. Many thanks again dear friend. Hope all’s well with you?

  3. In our childhood sometimes we see some stuff that was highly minacious and nightmare for us. But when we grow older and show guts to explore our nightmares it turns out in wonderful experience. Rivers are essential part of our life and everyone loves it.

  4. The idea of a theme (rivers) is a good departure from the usual. Good on you. Most of these I have not seen, but I have walked across that bridge in Porto a couple of times.

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