Tucked into a sentry’s walkway above the ‘Golden’ Gate to Diocletian’s palace, is an ancient church dedicated to Saint Martin, the patron saint of soldiers. It is a replica of the 6th century original, with a beautifully carved pre Romanesque altar partition that has been in situ since the 11th century. Narrow is the norm in the confined […]
I wake up to the aroma of freshly brewed coffee, just as R walks in with a bag of flaky croissants from the patisserie nearby. As we devour them along with half a kilo of luscious strawberries, sweet yogurt and creamy Pag cheese from the daily market, we ask ourselves why we have steered clear of apartments so far. R jokes […]
Zagreb, the capital of Croatia, and blogger friend Paula’s hometown, was meant to be just a transit point en-route to the Dalmatian coast. But it turned out to be far lovelier than we expected. While we were deeply disappointed that we couldn’t meet Paula in person, she was with us in spirit as we explored her beautiful city, thanks to […]
No visit to Getaria can begin without knowing the answer to this simple question: Who was the first person to circumnavigate the earth? What you and I learned in primary school, it appears, is the wrong answer! Ferdinand Magellan did plan and embark on the ambitious voyage from Spain. He did discover the strait that led to the Pacific ocean (whose name […]
For our 40th anniversary last month, (You read right. And ditch the math, I am not quite as old as you are thinking right now!) we consciously decided to give showy sights a miss for a slow savouring of food, wine and languorous coastal villages. And the Basque region came up trumps on all counts. With just the right amount of […]
I don’t think I have ever seen as many people with infants in strollers as I did during our recent visit to Spain. Or as many with dogs of every breed, size and colour on leashes. After all the disturbing stories about how deeply most everyone we interacted with during our trip was affected by […]
The avant garde metal and glass interior of the Fernando Zobel train station was the last thing we expected when we disembarked after our 45 min. high speed train journey from Madrid. A nagging feeling that we had inadvertently got off at the wrong station persisted as we climbed into the lone taxi out front and sped […]
When we dashed across, nearly a decade ago, on a (crazy) day trip from Barcelona to Bilbao just to gaze upon those stunning overlapping waves of shimmering titanium, we were clueless about the city’s history of industrial decline, or of the conception of the Guggenheim museum as an icon of urban reinvention. It is hard to imagine that […]