Updated: SEPTEMBER 2021
I knew better than to expect a concrete jungle and traffic choked streets typical of most Asian metropolises. And yet, I wasn’t quite prepared for the extent of time warp in this capital city by the Mekong.
The sixties style airport, the crumbling French architecture, the sputtering tuk tuks, the languid pace of life itself! That we arrived on a Sunday, which also happened to be the Lao National Day, heightened that impression considerably.
One could be forgiven for thinking this tranquil land and its smiling, imperturbable people have never been touched by strife. But this is the capital of a country wracked by civil war in the not too distant past, carpet bombed during the Vietnam war by US forces and crushed by three decades of communist rule.
It is this political legacy, ironically, that has preserved the essence of the unique Lao heritage. I can’t help wondering how much the locals appreciate this status quo, however, while we gush over the city’s provincial charm.
Progress or preservation? That’s a tough question and one I have pondered many times while celebrating a shiny new landmark back home.
The view from our fifth floor window was strangely familiar. Knock off those Buddhist accoutrements, and I could have been gazing at the terracotta tiled roofscape of my hometown complete with coconut palms and that constant in my nostalgic daydreams: a gently flowing river in the horizon.
We could easily have stayed a few more days. In the event, I ran downstairs and got the receptionist to move our morning flight to Luang Prabang to the last of the following day.
There isn’t a lot to do in Vientiane, whose name is derived from the ancient Pali for ‘City of the Moon’. No overwhelming architecture or archaeological sights to explore.
Most landmarks – the Wat Sisaket and the Wat Ho Phra Kaew, the National Museum and a cluster of smaller temples and markets – are all within walking distance of each other and can be fitted into an easy day’s itinerary.
But remember, they do take a long lunch break and close at 4pm, effectively staying open for under 6 hours. The Arc du Triomphe inspired victory monument, Patuxai, and the iconic symbol of Vientiane, the Pha That Luang, close at 5pm.
Potent Beer Lao further eased us into a mellow holiday mood. Our first al fresco Laotian meal (at Kop Chai Deu) of fried chicken with Kafir lime and pungent peppers accompanied by sticky rice was a delicious portent of good things to come even if our restaurant of choice was closed on account of National Day.
Later, we browsed through the night market and then segued up to the riverfront. The promenade was deserted save for a few stragglers from the market. We lingered a while inhaling the balmy air redolent of frangipani and those damp, fishy riverine scents that I miss so much. Then we walked back to our hotel, content in the knowledge that the shimmering course of this mighty river would follow our footsteps through Indochina.
THINGS TO DO IN VIENTIANE, LAOS
Vientiane, where few landmarks are what can be termed ‘must-dos’, is a gentle initiation to the Lao way of life. Soaking in its unhurried vibe is the most enjoyable thing to do.
Pha That Luang
Local legend dates Pha That Luang to 3 AD when (Indian) Emperor Ashoka’s emissaries constructed the stupa to house a relic of the Buddha. The ruined ancient stupa was reconstructed in the style of a Khmer Temple in the 13th century but it again fell into disuse. When King Setthathirat shifted his capital to Vientiane from Luang Prabang, he rebuilt the stupa/temple in its current style – since considered uniquely Lao – and covered its outer surfaces in gold. His smiling statue tops his memorial monument directly in front of the shrine.
The wat’s gold was looted in subsequent wars with Siam, Burma and China and it wasn’t until the early 19th century that the French colonial government decided to restore it to its former glory. Only the pinnacle is now covered in real gold. The rest is gold paint.
Hours: 08.00- 16.00
Entrance: 10,000 Kip
Haw Phra Kaew
The famed Emerald Buddha (now in Bangkok after having travelled extensively around the region over several hundred years!) was housed in the royal temple of Haw Phra Kaew before it was carted away to Siam (Thailand). The beautiful 16th century shrine is now a museum exhibiting Lao religious art.
Hours: 08.00- 16.00
Entrance: 10,000 Kip
Wat Si Saket
is the oldest temple in Vientiane, the only Laotian religious structure in the capital that survived the 1827 occupation by Siam. It’s main attraction is its multitude of Buddha statues – over 10,000 bronze, stone and wooden sculptures in varying sizes -inside the ornate sim (ordination hall) and along the walls of the arcade that surrounds the inner courtyard. Photography is prohibited inside the Sim.
Hours: 08:00 – 16:00
Entrance: 10,000 Kip
Patuxai
Patuxai (or Patuxay) is the “Gate of Triumph”: a mid 20th century Laotian interpretation of the Arc de Triomphe in Paris with a wide avenue leading up to it. It is gilded and painted in Lao style with a pretty blue ceiling above the ground floor entryway. There isn’t really much to see on the upper floors other than fair views through Buddha shaped metal grills.
Hours: Weekdays 08:00 to 16:30; Sat & Sun 08:00 to 17:00
Entrance: 10,000 Kip
MORE THINGS TO DO
- The night market isn’t worth seeking out but we did enjoy our quiet walk along the modest promenade post dinner.
- I hugely regretted missing a visit to Carol Cassidy’s Lao Textiles Workshop. We had set aside time for it but found it closed, probably for National Day. It comes highly recommended.
- I also wish I’d made time for a working temple like Wat Si Muang that locals frequent and for a local village market.
- Trekking in Phou Khao Khuay National Park – with a guide – seems worthwhile with an entire day to spare.
- The Buddha Park is featured on most ‘Things To Do In Vientiane’ lists but the accounts and photos of the place didn’t appeal to either of us so we skipped it.
- The dragon Boat Race on the Mekong seems worth timing a visit for. Here’s a list of all festivals in Vientiane.
VIENTIANE TRAVEL LOGISTICS
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Getting to Vientiane:
BY AIR: Wattay International Airport is serviced by several international airlines from South East Asia and beyond. We flew Bangok Air.
BY TRAIN: Direct trains ply between Bangkok and Thanaleng Train Station or Nong Khai Station. Take the bus or a taxi to the centre of town. Book train tickets on 12Go Asia.
Buses connect Southern China and several SEAsian destinations but it takes over 12 hours.
GETTING AROUND VIENTIANE
Tuk tuks and taxis are cheap and plentiful. You can get your hotel to call one or hail them on the street.
Where to stay in Vientiane:
Vientiane’s tourist accommodation scene isn’t the most exciting especially in the high end to luxury range.
We stayed at the Salana Boutique Hotel: A clean and centrally located property that spotted a discrepancy in our flight details and alerted us and helped us change our onward flight.
FIND MORE OPTIONS TO FIT YOUR BUDGET HERE.
VIENTIANE FAQs
Is Vientiane safe?
It is one of the safest cities in SE Asia and the people are most gentle and friendly.
What is special about Vientiane?
As mentioned right in the beginning, its languid, laid back vibe.
Is Vientiane worth visiting?
It is indeed!
The Urge To Wander 
Beautiful! Colours and people, buildings and art – everything.
Oh, thank you so much Ann! Happy you enjoyed it 🙂
Beautiful pictures. It looks so exotic and peaceful. I would have changed my flight, too.
Thank you. Yes peaceful is the word. And that small town vibe 🙂
Lovely post Madhu! I could almost smell the frangipani.
Thank you Kathryn. Your Egypt trip must have been amazing. Shall be over to catch up with all your posts soon 🙂
What a beautiful entry, Madhu… reading this and looking through the photos brought back many fond memories of my time in Vientiane this past May. You describe the city perfectly! I loved the chirping birds and insects, the sheer silence, the languid pace… and the food too, what a pleasant surprise it all was!
Yes, I was surprised too, despite reading your – and Bama’s – accounts, by how much we loved the place 🙂
amazing photos!!!
Thank you Aian! Appreciate your stopping by to comment 🙂
Wonderful! 🙂 Just caught up with your posts! And I’m Loving it! Welcome back 🙂
Thank you Kasturika. Shall catch up with yours soon, I promise 🙂
the images, as always, are stunning. my favorite is the ‘Evening LIght at Patuxai” those shadows are as important as the images!
Appreciate that Lisa. I love those linked shadows too 🙂
So many great photos. I just can’t pick a favorite. I like to think of the sound of that river and the taste of that food.
Oh yes, the food in Laos was fabulous. Quite similar to Thai, but with a more intriguing combination of flavours and ingredients.
Great photos of a beautiful city. I had to check where Vientiane was on the map. The East is so beautiful and different to the West in many ways.
Thank you Jane. Yes, you would find it totally enchanting 🙂
I used to have neighbours who were originally from India.Their son, who was born and brought up in Scotland, married a woman from India and the family all moved back to Kolkata.
Mrs Basu used to cook some wonderful Indian dishes and I would be told of life in India. I must travel to the East as it sounds fascinating.
Welcome Back and Happy New Year ! Looks like you had such a fabulous holiday and so adventurous.
Thank you! And Happy New Year to you too 🙂
Madhu, what a lovely thing to read this post at the end of December. It brought back so many nice memories. I really love the way you described Vientiane, and I did feel exactly the same. Look forward to your story on Luang Prabang!
Glad you like it Bama.
Vientiane reminded me so much of the South India of a few decades ago! Hope ‘progress’ doesn’t make it a clone of our cities.
Another beautiful and informative post! Thank you. And Happy New Year, Madhu.
Thank you Stephen. A splendid new year to you too 🙂
Wonderful as always Madhu, was this recent?
Yes, we returned on the 18th Gilly. The reason why I am so behind on my posting schedule, comments and blog reading 🙂
Preservation with limited amounts of progress, would be a good recipe in my opinion. Thank you for this wonderful journey!
🙂
That sounds perfect……if they can find the balance. I fervently hope they do.
Thank YOU for reading Marina. Wish you a Happy New Year 🙂
A lovely account.. Wish I could someday pay a visit 🙂
Thank you Daffodil. You will, if you want to badly enough 🙂
Hi Madhu,
This is really interesting! I love the photos, and the informative description, as always. It sounds like a wonderful trip altogether.
It was! Thank you so much Naomi 🙂
awesome photographs!
So kind of you Soumya 🙂
It’s so wonderful to be sitting there in your camera bag … wonderful photos again, don’t know how to say it … the little boys is one of my favorite – also I really like when you take photos on the details around you … like the window .. happy painter and your market loot. Magical.
Laos is a magical country Viveka. I hope to return to its smaller towns in the South someday. Thank you so much for your kind comments 🙂
You and your camera is such a great team – and it’s a true pleasure to visit your world.
Vientiene is one of those places that everyone seems to pass by very quickly but I ended up there for almost a week waiting for visas and really got into the slow pace of life and met some lovely people. Thanks for bringing back some great memories with your photos.
How wonderful! I wouldn’t mind getting stuck in a lovely place like that 🙂 Have you written about it?
I haven’t written much about Asia as it was a while back and I don’t have many photos, but I’m getting a negative scanner so will try and do a few older posts when I do.
Interesting post and some wonderful photos… 🙂
Thank you Ledrake 🙂
I love the little boy! What a pretty place and the smell of frangipanis is heavenly. I have one on my balcony and I love to stand in front of it and just breathe.
Yes, that little boy is a clear favourite 🙂
Thank you Debra, and have a wonderful New Year!
Thank you so much,wonderful photos.Happy New Year!
Thank YOU for dropping by and taking the time to respond Rima 🙂
Happy New Year!
Vientiane – I always thought that sounded so poetic and now I know why. Lovely post conjuring up the sights, sounds and smells of a distant land.
Thank you Suzanne.
The poetic sound is a Gallic corruption of ‘Vieng Chan’ by the way! The French can make anything sound romantic 🙂
What a beautiful description of Vientiane. To visit a place where you can see everything in one day is rare. It’s those places I would like to linger at longer. We didn’t get to Vientiane but spent a few days in Luang Prabang. I’ll be interested in your thoughts on LP. Lovely photos, Madhu, especially the window at Patuxai, my favorite.
Thanks Lynne. Yes, of late we are attracted to such smaller places as well.
As for LP, my images would pale in comparison to Ron’s awesome collection 🙂
I was trying click on the little boy pic to make it bigger. He’s too gorgeous. 🙂 What a lovely place to visit, Madhu. Thanks for sharing your experience.
Isn’t he? I have another one of him bawling after a tiff with his brother which is just as cute 🙂 Still not familiar with the new uploader AD. Think I have sorted the link now.
Wonderful post Madhu; how great to be able to take these trips, and how great for us to be able to follow along through your wonderful photos.
Thank you Angeline, for the interest and the generosity 🙂
We are planning an international trip this next year. Trying to decide between Asia and New Zealand. Your photos give us much to ponder.
That is a hard decision!
Would have to be a choice between ‘cultural immersions’ v/s ‘the great outdoors’. New Zealand is high on my list too. Have had my fill of culture for a while 🙂
We are leaning towards New Zealand and Australia I believe.
I think that would be the right choice for you, going by your interests 🙂 We have been putting off Australia till we can take off for longer stretches of time.
We are looking at 2-2.5 months in order to see everything we want to see.
You would need about that much time to do both countries at a stretch. Happy planning LuAnn 🙂
Thanks Madhu.
Fabulous shots!!!
Thank you Rexlin 🙂
Thank you! And to you too 🙂
Yes, we spent a considerable time watching that little boy at play 🙂
Isn’t it amazing that the first impression of a place is the utter astonishment we felt standing in a half empty street! I can remember almost daring the traffic to come bearing down on me, but of course, it never materialised! That was the closest to a timewarp I’ve ever entered – back to small town living fifty years ago, really. And sitting by the river at sunset … I loved Vientiane too, and was glad to have been able to relax into its somnolent rhythm – and that evening light you captured in your shot of Patuxai. It was lovely to see the statues of Haw Phra Kaew all dressed for National Day, but it was your picture of the Nagas, with the ‘terrace’ of the temple above, and the touch of orange shirt … just loved that!
Yes, i enjoyed your post, Madhu, and am so glad you’re back to tell us all about your adventures in the land of a thousand elephants. 🙂
Oh, and if we don’t ‘talk’ before Monday, happy New Year!
Thank you, I loved the nagas too! Am thinking of doing a post on all the naga sculpture I photographed through Indochina! Have never seen so much Hindu Iconography as I did in those two weeks!
A very happy new year to you too Meredith 🙂
That would be a wonderful post Madhu because you’re right – Hindu iconography was everywhere – and often interestingly ‘distorted’ by indigenous imagery. 🙂
Wonderful photos – historic, scenic, and of a little boy. When I have the Urge to Wander, I visit your blog. It’s always such an excellent photo array.
You really find the most interesting places. I’m so glad for the opportunity to broaden my horizons through your blog. Thank you for sharing.
The deliht you take in your travels is so infectious Madhu…I loved this sliver you shared with us
You had another fabulous trip 🙂 The photo of Pha That Luang is just wonderful Madhu!
All these cities were time stopped, like Cuba, have, unwittingly, preserved their old architecture . 🙂
So, there is actually a place on this earth where a time warp and languid pace of life still exists…how I long to go there. And The Land of a Million Elephants is such a beautiful name.
Such lively shots of Vientiane, Madhu. We found it to be such an accessible capital city. Love the light and shadows you’ve captured at Patuxai.