India is almost a continent and I have barely begun to scratch its surface. Posts below span the capital Delhi, Kashmir, Ladakh, Jodhpur, Varanasi, Jaunpur, Lucknow, Hampi, Thanjavur and more. With brief cultural snippets from my home-town on the west coast and my adopted home on the east.
It is ironic that of the millions of visitors who flock to the grave of Mumtaz Mahal in Agra, few spare time to pay respects to her grand father-in-law, the third and greatest emperor of the Mughal empire in India: Jalaludin Mohammed Akbar (The Great). Akbar’s story is as remarkable as the man. Born in 1542 of Shia and […]
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The ethnic chic ambience of the Bistro Desert Rose in WelcomHotel Jodhpur, was the perfect setting for our late afternoon lunch date with chef Akshraj Jodha. – The lighting at our table was deemed not ideal for food photography though. So we worked out a solution where Iphone photographer Jack Hollingsworth’s meal was first served at a two seater setting by the window and brought […]
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The magnificent Mehrangarh fort perched 120 metres above the city, is justifiably the main attraction in Jodhpur. It is one of the largest and best preserved of Rajput citadels. And one of the better maintained as well, cared for as it is by the Mehrangarh Museum Trust under the aegis of Maharaja Gaj Singh himself. The interiors are impressive, the […]
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The fusion of traditions at the Jodhpur Flamenco and Gypsy Festival is a visual and emotive exploration of rhythm. Of the passion and pathos of the Cante with the joyous, raucous melodies of the Thar desert. The mellow tones of the acoustic guitar with the shrill keening of the Kamaicha and the Sindhi Sarangi. The power and […]
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Hotel Review: ITC WelcomeHotel Jodhpur.
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Our trip to Southern Spain over a decade ago, followed close on the heels of a fantastic week in Rajasthan. And I remember being struck by how closely the energy and the rhythm of Flamenco resembled the folk performances we had witnessed there. The connection wasn’t just my perception however, but a throwback to the beginnings of the gypsy […]
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The Indian safari model prohibits the entry of private vehicles into national game parks. Even highways cutting through the large parks are sealed from 6pm to 6am. While we spied several vehicles piled up at the barricades across the main road through Nagarhole National Park well past six, and are certain that a few of the drivers huddled around the rangers […]
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A primitive dancing girl and a Tantric Goddess trigger reflections on the current status of women in India.
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LAST UPDATED: 02 MARCH 2022 The site is deserted, even at midday. The ₹5 entrance fee (Since hiked. See updated travel logistics below) is almost an apology, even without the elevated status of a royal tomb. This “last flicker in the lamp of Mughal architecture” is the final resting place of the erstwhile Nawab of […]
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Breaking my tiger jinx…and HOW! From zero sightings in over twenty five years of forest visits (including several with a forest officer father-in-law) to five in under 48 hours last weekend! All thanks to the stellar tracking skills of our young naturalist, Mithun Hunugund, who seemed to be able to preempt the movements of every one […]
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“Not all of us can do great things. But we can do small things with great love.” ~Mother Teresa “If you judge people, you have no time to love them.” “There are many in the world who are dying for a piece of bread but there are many more dying for a little love. The […]
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“This better be worth it!” R muttered under his breath, as we turned into the pockmarked highway leading to Jaunpur. Great clouds of dust obscured the size of the potholes and our heads hit the roof of our vehicle more times than I cared to count. “Is the Allahabad highway any better?” he asked our equally tense driver, Sanjay. […]
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The Urge To Wander 