The Twin Fishes Of Ayodhya

This story begins with a legend. From a 13th century Korean chronicle – Karak Sam Kuk Yusa – of the emergence of six princes from a clutch of golden eggs, descended from the heavens in a gilded casket wrapped in red silk. The princes miraculously attain adulthood within twelve days. Suro – the eldest – is crowned first king of the Kara dynasty and ruler of Geumgwan […]

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Faces Of Jodhpur

One of my earliest posts on this blog dealt with my fascination for the ‘people of my places‘: “I find people amusing, fascinating, inspiring. When I travel I enjoy sitting in a cafe, looking out onto a busy street and observing random strangers going about their daily lives. It gives me a feel for their culture. A […]

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The Mausoleum Of Akbar The Great

It is ironic that of the millions of visitors who flock to the grave of Mumtaz Mahal in Agra, few spare time to pay respects to her grand father-in-law, the third and greatest emperor of the Mughal empire in India: Jalaludin Mohammed Akbar (The Great).  Akbar’s story is as remarkable as the man. Born in 1542 of Shia and […]

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Chef Jodha’s Royal Repast

ITC Hotel Jodhpur

The ethnic chic ambience of the Bistro Desert Rose in WelcomHotel Jodhpur, was the perfect setting for our late afternoon lunch date with chef Akshraj Jodha. – The lighting at our table was deemed not ideal for food photography though.  So we worked out a solution where Iphone photographer Jack Hollingsworth’s meal was first served at a two seater setting by the window and brought […]

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The Colours Of Jodhpur

The magnificent Mehrangarh fort perched 120 metres above the city, is justifiably the main attraction in Jodhpur. It is one of the largest and best preserved of Rajput citadels. And one of the better maintained as well, cared for as it is by the Mehrangarh Museum Trust under the aegis of Maharaja Gaj Singh himself. The interiors are impressive, the […]

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Jodhpur – Marwar Meets Andalucia In Mehrangarh

Jodhpur Flamenco and Gypsy Festival 2015

The fusion of traditions at the Jodhpur Flamenco and Gypsy Festival is a visual and emotive exploration of rhythm. Of the passion and pathos of the Cante with the joyous, raucous melodies of the Thar desert. The mellow tones of the acoustic guitar with the shrill keening of the Kamaicha and the Sindhi Sarangi. The power and […]

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Return of the Roma……

Our trip to Southern Spain over a decade ago, followed close on the heels of a fantastic week in Rajasthan. And I remember being struck by how closely the energy and the rhythm of Flamenco resembled the folk performances we had witnessed there. The connection wasn’t just my perception however, but a throwback to the beginnings of the gypsy […]

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Postcards From Kabini

The Indian safari model prohibits the entry of private vehicles into national game parks. Even highways cutting through the large parks are sealed from 6pm to 6am. While we spied several vehicles piled up at the barricades across the main road through Nagarhole National Park well past six, and are certain that a few of the drivers huddled around the rangers […]

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Tomb Of Safdarjung, Delhi, India

LAST UPDATED: 02 MARCH 2022 The site is deserted, even at midday. The ₹5 entrance fee (Since hiked. See updated travel logistics below) is almost an apology, even without the elevated status of a royal tomb. This “last flicker in the lamp of Mughal architecture” is the final resting place of the erstwhile Nawab of […]

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